Lizzie


I have been wanting a new slipper for a while. I kept putting it off because I couldn’t think of anything that didn’t start exactly like my Mary Janes. I knew I wanted something bold, but timeless.

I had the idea for a wrap shoe, but I was stuck on the same sort of construction as the Mary Janes (from the toe to heel). I knew FOR SURE I wanted something that was crocheted in one piece.

I picked up some yarn and started with the toe and made some interesting shaping, but once I got to the sole I realized it was way too similar to the MJs. I frogged it and started over.

This time, I started at the heel! Working back and forth across some stitches, I shaped the heel a bit, then crocheted a sole for a few more rows. When I got toward the toe, the fun began! Using a combination of increases and eventually some decreases, I ended up shaping a wrapped toe.

I wasn’t in love. There is my confession. It looked OK after I seamed it up, but I was kind of meh about it. I thought about it for a day and then started another pair. After I finished the first, I made the quick decision to seam up the second one with the wrap going in the opposite direction. Aha! That’s what was missing.

I was in love.

Check out the pattern below. I’ve even included some photos to help guide you during the assembly. Truly, it’s the only tricky part. I would suggest crocheting both slippers first, then sitting down to assemble them. I used Vanna’s Choice because it comes in such a great assortment of colors and tends to hold up really well.

Let me know what you think! Add your project to the Ravelry page so I can see your slippers!

MATERIALS
MC— 2 oz (100 yards) Vanna’s Choice yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight; 3.5 oz/100 g—170 yards per skein) in “Colonial Blue”
CC– less than 1 oz Vanna’s Choice yarn in “Linen”
5mm (US H-8) hook
safety pin or other removable marker
yarn needle

NOTES
Common U.S. terminology used in this pattern.
Ch: chain
DC: double crochet
SC: single crochet
Slst: slip-stitch
DC2tog: double crochet 2 together
DC3tog: double crochet 3 together
St: stitch
Sk: skip
Rep: repeat
Rem: remaining
RS: right side

Beg Ch 3 of rows = 1 DC; DC last stitch into top of beg Ch 3 of previous row.

Gauge
15 DC x 8 rows = 4″ with 5mm hook

Size
9″ un-stretched, to fit shoe sizes 8-10. Fabric is very stretchy and will accommodate a variety of sizes. To make a smaller size, crochet less rows for the sole and make a few SC decreases when you work the border.

PATTERN (make 2)
Pattern is worked from the back of the heel up to the toe.

Leaving 12″ tail, Ch 18.

Row 1: DC in 4th Ch from hook, DC in next 5 ch, 2 DC in next 2 ch, DC to end. Ch 3, turn. (18)

Row 2: Sk first DC, DC in next 7 sts, 2 DC in next 2 sts, DC to end. Ch 3, turn. (20)

Row 3: Sk first DC, DC in next 8 sts, 2 DC in next 2 sts, DC to end. Ch 3, turn. (22)

Row 4: Sk first DC, DC across. Ch 3, turn. (22)

Row 5: Sk first DC, DC2tog, DC to last 3 sts, DC2tog, DC in last st [last st = ch 3 of prev row]. Ch 3, turn. (20)

Row 6: Sk first DC, DC across. Ch 3, turn. (20)

Row 7-12: Rep Row 6.

Row 13: DC in first st, 2 DC in next st, DC to last 2 sts, 2 DC in each rem sts. Ch 3, turn. (24)

Row 14-15: Rep Row 13. (32 sts after Row 15)

Row 16: DC in first st, 2 DC in next st, DC in next 8 sts, DC2tog 6 times, DC in next 8 sts, 2 DC in rem 2 sts. Ch 3, turn. (30)

Row 17: DC in first st, 2 DC in next st, DC in next 6 sts, DC 2tog 7 times, DC in next 6 sts, 2 DC in last sts. Ch 3, turn. (27)

Row 18: Sk first DC, DC in next 7 sts, DC2tog twice, DC3tog, DC2tog twice, DC in last 8 sts. (21)

Leave at least 12″ of MC. FO.

Use the beginning tail to seam up the back edge.

The assembly is different for each slipper. Once you get the first made, the second shouldn’t be too confusing. You’re making opposite folds.

(LEFT SLIPPER)
Place a safety pin into beg ch 3 of row 16. (Fig. 1 below)
fig1

Leaving a 12″ tail, attach CC yarn at end of row 18 with RS of row 18 facing.

SC down side of last 4 rows, making 2 SC into each row. (Fig. 2 below)
fig2

Folding opposite flap down into slipper, make next SC into 5th row AND the ch-3 with a marker in it (Fig. 3 below). Make next SC into JUST the 5th row. Continue making 2 SC into the side of the rows.
fig3

When you get to the heel, make only 1 SC into row, then skip the heel seam and make 1 SC in first row. Make 2 SC in the rows back toward the toe.

When you get to the joining SC, slst into it, then slst into all SC around the slipper opening (Fig. 4 below).
fig4

FO and weave in that end. Seam the toe stitches down (Fig. 5). Weave in ends.
fig5
Note: The CC single crochet along the edge of the first 4 DC should lay directly on/across Row 15. I sew the SC down with a running stitch through the tops of the single crochet stitches and the tops of Row 15 double crochet stitches. I use a whip-stitch to sew the Row 18 stitches down along the top of the toe. Stretch them up so the seam sits on the edge of your toes. This will make it less visible from the top.

(RIGHT SLIPPER)
Place a safety pin into beg ch 3 of row 16.

Flip shoe “inside out” so Row 18 tail is now on the opposite side (Fig 6).
fig6

Leaving a 12″ tail, attach CC yarn at Row 15, with RS of row 15 facing you. 2 SC into the side of that DC. 2 SC into side of each row of DC toward the heel. Make only 1 SC into the rows at the seam. 2 SC into the side of each row of DC back toward the toe.

When you reach the 5th row from the top, make 1 SC into that row, then make 1 SC into the same row AND beg ch-3 of Row 16 (directly to the right of the first sc).

Continue making 2 SC into the sides of remaning 4 DC rows. FO leaving a 12″ tail.

Attach CC yarn at joining SC. Slst into 1 SC of previous round. Slst around slipper opening. FO and weave in that end. Use remaining tails to seam edges.

slippering

slips7

slips5

slips6

Pattern is free for personal use only.

105 comments to Lizzie

  • GothicSoprano

    I’ve made these a few times now (just about to start yet *another* pair for fall as my pair from last year’s getting a little worn out ^-^), no problems with st counts! I also have tiny feet, and I’ve found that skipping rows 8-12 makes a perfect size 5. This pattern also works *very* well with stripes.

  • Alizabeth

    As my nickname is Lizzie also, I will have to make these. Thank you.

  • Kim

    Can you show pix of the soles?

  • Anne

    AHHH! These are the best! I whipped up the bodies of a pair last night, took a bit longer than I thought to assemble, but I tend to chain tightly, so working the sc round for the opening took me a bit. LOVE these slippers. I currently have the first assemble one cozily on my foot while I fold and assemble the second. I see lots of Christmas gifts in my future with these….
    Thank you SO much for sharing, for the very straightforward pattern, and clarifying pictures. Job well done!

  • Katie

    Adorable! Can’t wait to make these!

  • Karen

    It would be so great if your patterns was all printer friendly!

  • Carol

    I’m at the end of row 5, at the end of the instructions for that row, it does not say chain 3 , turn, I assume I do need to chain 3 before I turn and start row 6. Can someone clarify this please?

  • Patti

    I noticed this a few weeks ago when I made a pair! ;) I automatically did the chain 3 then started second guessing myself because I’m a new hooker! hehe

    Just wondering if you could shed some light on what modifications I might need to make if I use a bulky yarn that recommends an “L” hook (8mm) on the packaging? I tried to start the pattern with the 5mm hook but it was too small to work the yarn properly :(

  • Do you work into the turning chain?

  • Sabrina

    Someone asked me to make a pair for her and her husband. Being this is a feminine looking slipper and that men tend to have wider feet, what would you do to make it look more masculine and be wide enough for a man’s foot? Thank you!

  • Barbara Bartell

    I have tried to make the Foxy hat, and raveled it out at least six times, In counting the stitches in the pattern as required, here is one example: Row 8, chain 3, that is counted as one stitch, right? DC 10 stitches, 3 dc stitches in next stitch(so far that makes 14 stitches) DC in next 21 stitches, twice, that makes 42 stitches, add to 14 equals 56 stitches,3 stitches in one, equals, 59 stitches,DC in last ten stitches, and slip stitch into the top of the beginning chain three stitch. total stitches equals 69 stitches, not 72 as stated. this is messing up the whole pattern, and that’s not the only miscounted row.
    Please take a look at this and get back to me.

    • Round 8:
      Ch 3 = 1
      DC in next 10 sts = 10
      [3 DC in next st, DC in next 21 sts] twice = 48
      3 DC in next st = 3
      DC in last 10 sts = 10
      slst to top of beg ch-3
      = 72 stitches

      I don’t think you made the [3 DC in next st, DC in next 21 sts] twice. It’s 3 DC in a st, then 21, then 3 DC in the next AGAIN, then 21 again.

  • Nicole

    I where a size 10 shoe, I also crochet maybe a little too tight. I saw a comment on how to make the shoe smaller but can you help me with making it bigger? I also have a wide foot. After finishing row 17, I put it on my foot and it was fine around the heel but not around the arch. could I get a bigger size just from changing the hook size(6.5) or would I need to add rows. Appreciate your help, I really want these slippers…lol I tried a month ago but I had just recently started crocheting again and basically had to reteach myself. Now Im confident in using the correct stitch but not good at customizing; especially with increases and decreases. Thanks in advance!

  • Lisa Farnworth

    I have large feet and most slipper patterns don’t fit well. I loved the style of these and gave them a try. I have now made two pair. I love them. Thank you. Do you have changes for smaller sizes or a child’s pair?
    :)

  • Gina

    In row 13 it looks like only 3 new stitches are added, but you’re supposed to have four more (going from 20 to 24). Am I doing something wrong or should there be a second 2 DC at the beginning of the row?

    • In Row 13, you are increasing in the first and last two stitches. Since the beginning chain 3 is equal to one stitch, you DC into the same space (the first stitch) to make the first increase. Let me know if it still doesn’t make sense!

  • Elly

    Hello!!! I was wondering if you would sell me the pattern so i could sell these. They are beautiful and other peaople think that also. I’m newer to crocheting and these work up so nice. I did’nt even notice anything wrong with the pattern. Anyways I would be willing to pay you for the pattern because you have a great talent. :) xoxo elly grace.

  • lacey dahlman

    I am having problems understanding how to assemble the slippers together. Is there a video or anything that I can watch?

  • Autumn

    I must have terribly odd shaped feet :( these needed to be just a tiny bit wider as I felt they should have climbed up the side of my foot just a bit higher, but they flop off the back of my heel. Maybe the yarn I used had too much drape.

  • awsomesause

    I am loving the pair I just made and I am only in 5th grade

  • Karine

    Hi. I have just tried to make the penttouffle but I do not do there finally yes but I am not certain voucher at the right place I does not make that to begin in the hook to have you a diagram of point if it is possible??? Thank you I adore this model…

  • Jacqueline Bay

    Row 13: DC in first st, 2 DC in next st, DC to last 2 sts, 2 DC in each rem sts. Ch 3, turn. (24)

    Row 14-15: Rep Row 13. (32 sts after Row 15)

    (I only end up with 30 after two more rows after Row 13. I have 24 and then the increases are THREE for two rows which makes 6 increased stitches) What am I missing? I am supposed to be at 32.

  • Jessica

    Hi, does the chain three count as 1 of the total # of stitches or not? Also when you state skip first dc are you 2 or 3 chains from the hook?

    • Yes, the beginning chain 3 of each row counts as a double crochet stitch. The “sk first DC” is there to remind you that the beginning chain 3 is already a stitch, so you don’t need to DC into that first DC you see. This creates a straighter edge along the sides of the DC rows. At Row 13, you crochet into the first stitches because you are increasing each row.

  • Mary

    So does the skip first DC means
    A. i will insert my hook in the stitch directly after the 3chains?
    Or
    B. i will insert my hook in the 2nd visible DC after the 3chains and the first visible DC? Thanks! :)

    • Since we are counting the beginning DC of each round as a stitch, we skip the first visible DC of the row and make our last DC of the row into the top of the turning chain. Let me know if that explanation helps!

  • Alice In Wonderland

    On row 16 I don’t have enough stitches. Every time I get to the DCtog 6 times I reach the end of the row. Any ideas?

    • Do you have the correct number of stitches after Row 15? That would be 32. Row 16, you increase in the first two stitches (since the Ch 3 DOES count as a stitch, you crochet directly into the first stitch to increase), then decrease 6 in the center, then increase in the last 2. Decreasing 6 would equal 26, but you increase in the first and last two to add 4, which should leave you with 30 stitches after Row 16.

  • Alice In Wonderland

    Ok I’m sorry, but do the chain three count as stitches like do they count as the last stitches on the row?

  • Tiza

    I love these sleepers and they are next on my list of things to do.

  • Lillie Oneal

    Making for a gift, workup well not to difficult. Thanks

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